Come to Trani and have a glass of Moscato wine

Trani is one of the most appealing Apulian sea towns.

The night life is sparkling. 

People from the provinces of Bari, Foggia and BAT go there to have good time.

You find many pubs and restaurants along the quay (marina).

Many fishing boats are docked there. Therefore, if you wish to eat fresh fish you know where to go to.

I walk around the inner city and I find an interesting advise which says that Trani is a città slow. 

It adds: città del vivere bene (town where you can live well). 

This movement is inspired by the slow food organization.

The main aims of the città slow are:

•         Making life better for everyone living in an urban environment. 
•      Improving the quality of life in the  cities. 
•      Provide inspiration for a healthier lifestyle.  
•      Protecting the environment

Talking about the history, Trani has lived its golden age during the middle age.

Its port, well placed for the crusades, developed greatly, becoming the most important one on the Adriatic sea.

In the 12^th century, some important families from the Italian Maritime Republics such as Venice, Pisa, Amalfi established themselves in Trani.

Trani hosts one of the largest Jewish community of Southern Italy.

By the 12th century, Trani already housed a large Jewish community.

We have to remember that under the Swabians, the entire South of Italy lived a time of prosperity. 

Additionally, Jews, Muslims and Catholics used to live all together in peace.

Trani was the birthplace of one of the greatest medieval rabbis of Italy: Rabbi Isaiah ben Mali di Trani (1180 - 1250)

Then, under the Anjou and Aragonese rule, the Jewish community was persecuted by the Dominicans, who notoriously played a key role during the Holy Inquisition.

For example, the Scolanova Synagogue was built in the 13^th century. 

Then, it was confiscated around the 1380, and converted for use as a church.

In 2006, the building was de-sanctified by the church and returned to the Jewish community.







From a cultural and religious perspective, Apulia seems to me like Andalusia in Spain. 

Both these regions worked as connections between East and West.  

Now, let’s talk about the symbol of Trani, the Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Nicholas the pilgrim.

Built in the characteristic white local limestone, it lies on a raised open site near the sea.

The arches of the Romanesque portal are beautifully ornamented, in a manner suggestive of Arab influence.

The Swabian castle of Trani is a small jewel.

Trani is well known for its sweet white wine: Moscato di Trani.

I guarantee you that this is a faboulus wine, ideal to accompany sweets, particularly those made by almonds.

If you wish to see more pictures, please click here

Take it slow

When art is outdoor, the example of Troia (Foggia)

Today I am going to visit the Cathedral of Troia, an unbeatable example of Romanico-Pugliese.

I take advantage of the fact that I am located on temporary basis in Manfredonia.

In order to reach Troia, I head to Foggia.

Troia was called Troja till the beginning of the last century. It has the same name of the Homeric town Troy.

However, during the Roman age, its name was Aecae. Then, In 1019, the Byzantine Catapano Basilio 

Bojoannes, changed it to Troia, after having rebuilt the town destroyed by the war between Longobards and Byzantines.

After having reached Foggia, I follow the indications for Troia, which is actually just 13 miles beyond Foggia.

While I drive on, I realize that the landscape is changing. Troia is located on the Monti Dauni.

I see around hills, covered by vineyards.

Uva di Troia is a red wine grape from which is made the fruity wine Nero di Troia. This grape is cultivated mainly in the provinces of Foggia and BAT.

As I am few miles from Troia, I see two men awaiting a bus. They look like workers, and they are probably tired.

Therefore, I stop there. Then, I look at the rear-view mirror.

They seem to hesitate, so I just drive in reverse to ask them if they need a lift.

“yes please” they say.

Once in, they enquiry: “where do you come from?” I reply: “I come from Manfredonia. I am just heading to Troia to see its renowned cathedral.”

They look pretty glad of having been picked up.

We start talking about wine and olive oil.

The younger, Renato says: “I choose carefully what I eat. Do you read the news?” He adds: “some people work their entire life, then, they die as soon as they retire. I believe, this is due to the fact the there is an abuse of agrochemicals.” He says.

Once in Troia, Renato offers me a coffee to return the favor.

“go straight on, the cathedral is just 5 minutes walking” he says.

I have always liked people from the countryside or small villages. They have a sense of humanity that it is rare to find in the big city.

Once in front the cathedral, I gape myself.

I had never seen so far a rosone as beautiful as this one.

It seems to be made of silk or cotton, and not of stone.

What strikes me is the alternating color of the stones, white and green.

Symbols are everywhere: stars, crescent-shaped and so on.

Another interesting element of this church is represented by the two bronze doors, which are very unusual in Italy.

I spent almost one hour contemplating the cathedral.

From my point of view, this is the most beautiful example of Romanico-Pugliese so far.

If you wish to see more pictures, please click here

Canosa di Puglia, the “little Rome”

When I was 23 years old, I went to London.

I spent three weeks there in order to attend an English class.

One day, my Polish friend and I decided to not go to school. We took a day off because we had planned to visit the British Museum.

Once in, we entered the exhibitions of Greece and Rome. 

Well, I was just so astounded by seeing so many objects from Canosa, in Apulia.

“I come from this area!” I proudly said to my friend, pointing the finger at the map.

Canosa is a town located in north of Apulia.

It has roughly 5000 years of history.

Canosa was called the “little Rome” because it is located on the top of seven hills, like Rome.

The grandiose appellation was given for an historical reason as well.

The Romans, defeated by Hannibal during the 2^nd Carthaginian war, were rescued by Canosa.

Finally, the Romans managed to beat Hannibal and Canosa was well rewarded: it became colonia. 

Additionally, the Via Traiana passed by Canosa. 

While driving toward Canosa, I just realize that there are vineyards everywhere.

It is September, so it is time to harvest grapes.

The Rosso Canosa is a very good wine, made by Nero di Troia a red grape variety grown just in Apulia.

I arrive at Canosa at 12 o’clock, quite late because of the heavy rain which I have encountered.

Therefore, I have little time to see two things: the Archaeological museum hosted in Palazzo Sinesi and the S. Sabino cathedral.

By the way, Canosa has much more to offer in terms of archaeological and cultural heritage.

After having parked the car, I quickly move to the Cathedral, which hosts two amazing objects: the ambone and the throne with elephants.

The ambone was made by Acceptus, an Apulian Master who adorned the Cathedrals of Siponto and Monte S. Angelo as well.

On the other hand, the marble throne was manufactured by Romualdo. 

The throne has evident Oriental influence, typical example of the Romanico-Pugliese culture.

I feel shivers down my back looking at it. The throne is just so beautiful.

I would have liked to contemplate the Boemondo mausoleum, which is beside the cathedral.

Unfortunately, I do not have time. So, I promise myself to come back soon.

I get out the cathedral.

I quickly move toward Palazzo Sinesi. I look forward to see the archaeological exhibition.

I have half an hour time.

I enter Palazzo Sinesi and talk with the manager.

She says: “Canosa were manufacturing ceramic from the 8^th till the 2^nd century BC. In other words, it stopped with the Roman age.”

From my point of view, the nicest ceramic which I see here it is the Daunian ones. Canosa was Daunian.

The bright pink color was extracted by natural processes.  

Another unique object hosted here is the armour (4^th century BC), coming from a tomb in Lavello.

Apparently, there are just 24 armours from that age spread around the world. 

Some of them come from Canosa di Puglia.

I have completed my visit. I cheer the manager and I get out.

Now, I easily walk toward the car.

I feel tired but serene.

If you wish to view more pics, please click here