Otranto, the mystery of the Pantaleone's mosaic

Otranto is a border town.

Otranto is the most easterly town of Italy.

I visited it few weeks ago. 

Otranto is one of the tourist capital of Apulia. 








And I would add that it fully deserves to be considered like that, both from an artistic and historical points of view.

So, I leave Brindisi early in the morning. 

However, I plan to stop by Torre dell’Orso, few miles before Otranto.

Torre dell’Orso, is one of the most amazing beach of the Adriatic sea.

So after having been there, I definitely endorse this belief.

Therefore, I strongly recommend you to visit it. 

Of course, not in July or August, unless you like to stay squeezed like a sardine.

Torre dell’Orso has a fantastic sand. 

And the sea…what a beautiful sea, so transparent, so clear.

I have been swimming there for 15 or 20 minutes. 

While swimming, a miracle happened: I saw underneath me a pod of huge sea basses.

I am not used to swim among fishes, so I got so full of energy and surprise that I yelled: “Yeeaahhhhhh”. 

At around 4 pm, I quit Torre dell’Orso. 

The journey resumed.

I remember that it was just so beautiful to drive along the way to Otranto. 

I passed by Laghi Alimini, another wonderful area of Salento. 

Finally, I arrive in Otranto.

I park the car outside the city center. 

I walk for ten minutes before seeing the seafront.

I desire to see l’albero della vita (the tree of life), a mosaic devised by Pantaleone, an Orthodox Basilian monk.

The mosaic is held in the cathedral. It is the biggest mosaic in Europe. It was realized in 1163. 

The tree contains a welter of images such as Adam and Eva, Solomon, Noah etc.

However, there are other images that one would not expect to find in a Christian church such as King Arthur, images from the game of chess, from Scandinavian mithology,  and so on.

What did Pantaleone mean through the mosaic? It is still a mistery.

At that time, a couple of miles from Otranto there was the Monastero di San Nicola di Casole, which hosted one of the biggest library in Europe. 

Pantaleone was settled there.

The mentioned Monastero was a Theological laboratory where Greek and Latin rites coexisted, with mutual respect and dignity.

Probably, what Pantaleone meant by the mosaic is that "the tree of life" sucks sap from any the culture.

This reflects the fact that Otranto was a junction of cultures and religions.

Most of the themes depicted in the mosaic have been represented in the Holy Comedy. 

As the mosaic is prior the Dante Alighieri's book, some researchers have supposed that Dante had studied the tree, or at least had spent some time at the Monastero del Casale.

In the 12th century, Otranto hosted one of the biggest Jew community in Italy. 

There were around 500 Jew families.

Otranto is famous on worldwide basis due to the 800 martyrs.

In other words, in 1480, an Ottoman fleet of 10.000 soldiers reached Otranto. 

Then, after two weeks of siege, Otranto had been conquered.

The Ottomans kidnapped 813 native men, ordering them to embrace the Muslim religion. 

At their denial, the Ottomans beheaded all of them, a praxis which nowadays is sadly notorious.

Due to this sad event, Otranto has been declared by UNESCO as Site Messenger of Peace.

Another good reason to visit Otranto, is due to the Carmelo Bene's choice of living there.

Carmelo Bene used to say about Salento: "Tutta la terra d'Otranto e' fuori di se'. Se ne e' andata chissa' dove. E' una terra nomade, gira su se stessa. A vuoto".

Carmelo Bene was the main Italian exponent of the Italian avant-garde theater and cinema.

I would encourage you to watch Nostra Signora dei Turchi (Our lady of the Turks). 

The title re-calls in a way the tragedy of the 800 martyrs.

Indeed, in Otranto it is going to be established a Museum entirely dedicated to Carmelo Bene. 

The museum will open in 2015.


Ps. Click here, should you wish to view more pics.

Come to Trani and have a glass of Moscato wine

Trani is one of the most appealing Apulian sea towns.

The night life is sparkling. 

People from the provinces of Bari, Foggia and BAT go there to have good time.

You find many pubs and restaurants along the quay (marina).

Many fishing boats are docked there. Therefore, if you wish to eat fresh fish you know where to go to.

I walk around the inner city and I find an interesting advise which says that Trani is a città slow. 

It adds: città del vivere bene (town where you can live well). 

This movement is inspired by the slow food organization.

The main aims of the città slow are:

•         Making life better for everyone living in an urban environment. 
•      Improving the quality of life in the  cities. 
•      Provide inspiration for a healthier lifestyle.  
•      Protecting the environment

Talking about the history, Trani has lived its golden age during the middle age.

Its port, well placed for the crusades, developed greatly, becoming the most important one on the Adriatic sea.

In the 12^th century, some important families from the Italian Maritime Republics such as Venice, Pisa, Amalfi established themselves in Trani.

Trani hosts one of the largest Jewish community of Southern Italy.

By the 12th century, Trani already housed a large Jewish community.

We have to remember that under the Swabians, the entire South of Italy lived a time of prosperity. 

Additionally, Jews, Muslims and Catholics used to live all together in peace.

Trani was the birthplace of one of the greatest medieval rabbis of Italy: Rabbi Isaiah ben Mali di Trani (1180 - 1250)

Then, under the Anjou and Aragonese rule, the Jewish community was persecuted by the Dominicans, who notoriously played a key role during the Holy Inquisition.

For example, the Scolanova Synagogue was built in the 13^th century. 

Then, it was confiscated around the 1380, and converted for use as a church.

In 2006, the building was de-sanctified by the church and returned to the Jewish community.







From a cultural and religious perspective, Apulia seems to me like Andalusia in Spain. 

Both these regions worked as connections between East and West.  

Now, let’s talk about the symbol of Trani, the Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Nicholas the pilgrim.

Built in the characteristic white local limestone, it lies on a raised open site near the sea.

The arches of the Romanesque portal are beautifully ornamented, in a manner suggestive of Arab influence.

The Swabian castle of Trani is a small jewel.

Trani is well known for its sweet white wine: Moscato di Trani.

I guarantee you that this is a faboulus wine, ideal to accompany sweets, particularly those made by almonds.

If you wish to see more pictures, please click here

Take it slow