In Apulia human beings
have inhabited caves since the beginning of time.
This custom went on till
the Middle-Age.
This phenomenon must
be framed within what it’s called “Mediterranean civilisation”.
The rupestrian park of
Lama d’Antico is in Savelletri, nearby Fasano.
We have decided to
spend there the Saturday night.
Antonella, as Virgilio
with Dante in the Holy Commedey, takes us through Lama d’Antico.
We get along a path
with candles disseminated all the way long.
It seems to me like
travelling back the ancient times, with no noise, no lights.
Just us and the
sky above our heads.
Describing the site,
Antonella points out that “the further rupestrian site is in Ethiopia”.
Lama d’Antico is a
vast rupestrian area, where you can admire houses, churches and laboratories
excaved in the rock.
This area once was a
river-bed, which channeled water from mountains (Murgia) to the Adriatic sea.
“Here people used to
cultivate olive trees and much
more”. Antonella says, while stopping by a very
old carob tree.
Houses are allocated
opposite to the rising sun.
In this way, the
ancients benefit from being warmed and enlighted by the sun.
Antonella leads us to visit the church of Lama d’Antico, which is one of the three churches existent in the park.
This is an Orthodox
church (a croce greca) so beautiful,
so rich of details.
This church has been
made in the 12th century.
It reflectes the Romanic style.
It has been probably
excavated from the top.
There are still
visible few frescos, which entirely
preserve the magic of touch of the
Byzantine artist who actually made it.
God (pictured) is
portrayed within an oval pattern which represents an almond.
According to the
Christian symbology, almond means rebirth.
A tomb has been discovered by the altar.
“That advise, written in Greek, reports that a
woman is buried here. We assume that she had to be pretty rich to afford it”
The guide states.
I add “nothing is
changed. Churches still work in the same way”. The audience burst laughing.
Among us there is a
couple of Bologna.
“We come every year to
Apulia to spend our holidays” They say.
Along the path, we see
the works of a local artist, Giovanni Carpignano.
“I pick up neglected
stuff left in the countryside such as hoes. These tools belong to our identity,
to the peasant civilisation” Giovanni explains.
It’s dark, completely
dark.
I scrutinise the sky,
plenty of bright stars.
A full rising moon
cheers us.
I have dressed the
shoes of ancient Apulians of Lama d’Antico.
I strongly recommend
you to come over here and admire this unique landscape.
The park of Lama
d’Antico has joined the project #Pugliaopendays, so on Saturday evening entrance
is free.
Before leaving, we
spend some time talking with Angela Brucoli, a photographer from Fasano.
She’s been delighting
the audience by projecting pictures taken by her book Simboli e segni di Puglia.
She appreciates #Pugliaopendays.
Nevertheless, she
disapproves the Road Show as way to advertise Apulia “It’s definitely a waste
of money” she complaints.
I’d like to stay here
longer, but my darling wish to come back home.
We get on our car and
leave behind the park.
After having driven
around 100 metres, I distinguish a couple walking in the dark.
I recognise them. They
had visited the park with us.
I roll down the car
window and ask “Hey guys, do you need a lift?”.
The man looks at me
for a while. Then finally replies “yes, please”.
“Come on, get on
board” I reply.
“Did you guys come to
the park on foot? It’s dangerous, isn’t” I say.
“It is indeed. We
didn’t realize it”.
Lucia, my beloved, asks
them “where do you come from?”.
“Well, we come from
Vicenza” they answer.
“We are arrived. We
get out here. Thank you so much” They say.
“No problem. Good
luck” we reply.
Now, it’s time to come
back home.
Home sweet home
