From Matera to Mottola through Metaponto

Last week I have been travelling around the south of Apulia.

I have touched few locations of Basilicata as well.

Of course, I have been with my beloved Lucia.

I started my journey from Matera, where I caught up with Raffaele, tourist guide as well as cinema location guide, as he points out in his business card.

Raffaele (pictured) has led us through some of the most extraordinary rocky churches of which Matera proudly boasts.  

“We materani are different from Apulians. Whereas Apulians have sense of business, people of Matera has always remained attached to their traditional economy of sheep-rearing”.

Things are quickly changing, though.

Tourism is whirlingly growing since Matera was appointed European capital of culture 2019.

However, foreigner tourists have begun to come over since Mel Gibson shot The Passion among the rocky sites of Sassi.

We have visited on our own the rocky church of San Nicola dei Greci, with its marvellous Byzantine frescoes.

I start talking with a Dutch tourist who, like me, seems enchanted by the Byzantine art.

“Yesterday, I have visited the museum of Metaponto (Magna Grecia). I strongly recommend you to visit it” he says.

Lucia and I leave Matera at our back, heading straight to Metaponto as suggested by our Dutch friend.

I have discovered that Metaponto was one of the most extraordinary site of Magna Grecia.

Pythagoras, the well known philosopher, sought refuge in Metaponto after having been chased by Cesiade,  tyrant of Kroton.

While visiting the museum of Metaponto, I realize how rich of artifacts this museum is.

One employee of such Museum tells us of her frustration due to the lack of consideration of National politicians for such an important museum, who currently has no archaeologists among his staff.

“Since the archaeologist De Siena has retired, this museum carries on with no archaeologist among its employees”.

This is a shame for Bel Paese, who has the highest number of UNESCO sites on worldwide basis.

After having seen the Museum, we move few hundred metres further to watch the archaeological park and the tavole palatine, wonderful examples of a prosperous Hellenistic civilisation.

The sun is fading.

It’s time to resume our voyage.

This time we drive towards Mottola, a town in the province of Taranto, famous for its rocky churches, among which there is the so-called Cappella Sistina of rocky churches: the church of St. Nicola (11^th century).

The day after we have an appointment arranged at the tourist office with Maria, local tourist guide (pictured).

At 9 o’clock we are at office, waiting few more tourist who will join the crew.

The church is in the countryside.

The guide has no car, therefore, I invite her to get on my car.

“Once, I have conducted to this church a large number of Russian tourists. Then, they asked me to let them  celebrate the mass. I found their rites moving” the guide says. 

In order to reach the church of St. Nicola, we have to step down few stairs carved out from the rock.

Once the door is open, I feel shivers at my back.

The frescoes are so vivid, so well kept.

The pantocrator has a so intense sight.

His eyes with his big pupils seems capturing me.

I well understand now the comparison with the Michelangelo’s Cappella Sistina.

Those like me who adore Byzantine art painted in rocky churches, must pay great recognition to Pietro Parenzan, a speleologist who firstly have highlighted few decades ago the importance of rocky civilisation, of which such church belongs to.

I feel so fulfilled.

I have seen so much beauty today.

We have spent the night in Mottola, eating a tasty pizza in the main plaza.

However, this is just a small detail.

The next post will concern a new chapter about the Byzantine art of rocky churches of Massafra.

Peace, Love and Culture

The rocky park of Lama d'Antico

In Apulia human beings have inhabited caves since the beginning of time.

This custom went on till the Middle-Age.

This phenomenon must be framed within what it’s called “Mediterranean civilisation”.

The rupestrian park of Lama d’Antico is in Savelletri, nearby Fasano.

We have decided to spend there the Saturday night.

Antonella, as Virgilio with Dante in the Holy Commedey, takes us through Lama d’Antico.

We get along a path with candles disseminated all the way long.

It seems to me like travelling back the ancient times, with no noise, no lights. 

Just us and the sky above our heads.

Describing the site, Antonella points out that “the further rupestrian site is in Ethiopia”.

Lama d’Antico is a vast rupestrian area, where you can admire houses, churches and laboratories excaved in the rock.

This area once was a river-bed, which channeled water from mountains (Murgia) to the Adriatic sea.

“Here people used to cultivate olive trees and much

more”. Antonella says, while stopping by a very old carob tree.

Houses are allocated opposite to the rising sun.

In this way, the ancients benefit from being warmed and enlighted by the sun.

Antonella leads us to visit the church of Lama d’Antico, which is one of the three churches existent in the park.

This is an Orthodox church (a croce greca) so beautiful, so rich of details.

This church has been made in the 12^th century.

It reflectes the Romanic style.

It has been probably excavated from the top.

There are still visible few frescos, which  entirely preserve the  magic of touch of the Byzantine artist who actually made it.

God (pictured) is portrayed within an oval pattern which represents an almond.

According to the Christian symbology, almond means rebirth.

A tomb has been discovered by the altar.

 “That advise, written in Greek, reports that a woman is buried here. We assume that she had to be pretty rich to afford it” The guide states.

I add “nothing is changed. Churches still work in the same way”. The audience burst laughing.

Among us there is a couple of Bologna.

“We come every year to Apulia to spend our holidays” They say.

Along the path, we see the works of a local artist, Giovanni Carpignano.

“I pick up neglected stuff left in the countryside such as hoes. These tools belong to our identity, to the peasant civilisation” Giovanni explains.

It’s dark, completely dark.

I scrutinise the sky, plenty of bright stars.

A full rising moon cheers us.

I have dressed the shoes of ancient Apulians of Lama d’Antico.

I strongly recommend you to come over here and admire this unique landscape.

The park of Lama d’Antico has joined the project #Pugliaopendays, so on Saturday evening entrance is free.

Before leaving, we spend some time talking with Angela Brucoli, a photographer from Fasano.

She’s been delighting the audience by projecting pictures taken by her book Simboli e segni di Puglia.

She appreciates #Pugliaopendays.

Nevertheless, she disapproves the Road Show as way to advertise Apulia “It’s definitely a waste of money” she complaints.

I’d like to stay here longer, but my darling wish to come back home.

We get on our car and leave behind the park.

After having driven around 100 metres, I distinguish a couple walking in the dark.

I recognise them. They had visited the park with us.

I roll down the car window and ask “Hey guys, do you need a lift?”.

The man looks at me for a while. Then finally replies “yes, please”.

“Come on, get on board” I reply.

“Did you guys come to the park on foot? It’s dangerous, isn’t” I say.

“It is indeed. We didn’t realize it”.

Lucia, my beloved, asks them “where do you come from?”.

“Well, we come from Vicenza” they answer.

“We are arrived. We get out here. Thank you so much” They say.

“No problem. Good luck” we reply.

Now, it’s time to come back home.

Home sweet home