As the Lucia's mum had to buy a new dress there, I have driven both of them to the shop.
I am not really interested in fashion maters, therefore, I quit the shop after few minutes and head straight to the city center.
Italian city centers are like an open air museum, where it's possible to view their historical stratification.
I have been told that Laterza has something unique: a place called taverna degli spagnoli as well as the recent MuMa, museum of majolicas.
Taverna degli spagnoli, which may be translated to "Spanish tavern".
The IAT (tourist office), located within the local castle, it's warm and cozy.
"Good morning, I have called yesterday because I'd like to visit taverna degli spagnoli" I say.
"Sure, no problem" Nicola replies.
"The ticket costs 5 euros. We can go there whenever you wish. Additionally, we have here the MuMa which hosts a permanent exhibition of majolicas made in Laterza, from 14th to 19th century. It's free entry" he states.
"Cool!" I think to myself.
"I wish to see first the MuMa, then, the taverna" I tell him.
I have always heard about the beauty of majolicas made in Laterza. However, I would have never expected to see so outstanding artifacts.
The ones below are just a taste of what is displayed.
According to Wikipedia, majolicas have been invented by Egyptians.
The first artisans to produce majolica in Italy were in Palermo in the 10th century.
Arabs introduced it in Sicily.
A couple of centuries later, Faenza became one of the worldwide center of majolica.
According to Nicola, during the 18th century, there were in Laterza around 40 maiolicari (artisans who manufacture majolicas).
Today there are just 4 left.
At that time, the buyers were families in the upper class. So, this explains why the local majolicas were so sophisticated, so enchanting.
According to the book La Ceramica di Laterza nella collezione Tondolo (edited by Guido Donatone, published by Mario Congedo Editore) the items displayed at MuMa have been collected by Riccardo Tondolo.
Riccardo Tondolo (pictured on the left) has been seeking Laertian majolicas all around the world for decades.
The local community owes a lot to this man.
The oldest items shown at MuMa date back to the 14th century.
After having completed the tour at MuMa, I still feel inebriated.
"Ah, what a nice sensations art let you experience" I think to myself.
"Nicola, I am ready to view the taverna" I address him.
"Ok, let's go" the guide replies.
A blonde lady is with us, her name is Wanna.
Like Nicola, she is from Laterza too (both of them pictured).
Walking through the city center, we bump into some interesting places:
a building owned by aristocrats
The oldest public fountain
finally, an emblem which echoes the Borboni one
"This is supposed to be the ancient Byzantine church of St. Pietro" Nicola says.
"Then, this place turned to be a place of initiation of the Spanish dinasty Perez-Navarrete, which inherited Laterza in 1655".
Perez-Navarrete was a Spanish-Neapolitan family
Nicola adds "We suppose that the Spaniards used this place to recruit new soldiers".
Indeed, we see written on the top of the wall: chi vol haver il soldo, Hor qui s'accosti al capitano, which stands approximately for "Those who seek for money, come here close to the captain".
The taverna is plenty of frescos which our guide ascribe to local artists of the 17th century.
If you wish to find out more about this place, I suggest you this book La "cantina spagnola" di Laterza. I Perez Navarrete feudatari ed il Viceregno spagnolo, edited by Raffaella Beniamino, published by Congedo editore.
The below two pictures show:
a lady (centre) dancing with two men...
and Spanish soldiers
The tour is going to end up.
I have chance to exchange few words with Wanna.
She is back in Laterza after having worked a couple of years abroad.
Our land strongly needs educated and experienced people.
Please, let me spend few words on how great people of tourist office are. Nicola and his colleagues, young and well trained, are great professionals who work with passion.
Additionally, I wish to highlight the efforts of Laterza administration in promoting its immense cultural and environmental heritage. Well done!
Enjoy Laterza, then.
Ciao
Ps.
Click here, should you wish to view more pics
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