Monday 11 April 2016

Pomarici Santomasi musuem

After six months I'm back writing a new post.

Why? 

Because when you do things for passion, with Nonprofit purpose, it's your right to take a break, in order to ponder over an easy question such as "where am I going to"? 






Frankly, I have to say that even though I did not add any new posts for a while, people from all over the world has kept reading In Apulia.

So, I realised that people is eager to find out more about this Italian region, Apulia.

Below the figures of audience.













Today, I wish to share with you some discoveries made at the Pomarici Santomasi foundation, located in Gravina in Puglia, of which I have already written about.




The Pomarici Santomasi foundation hosts permanent exhibitions concerning archaeology, art gallery, library, numismatics, majolica and finally, Byzantine frescos.










The Foundation has been established after that Ettore Pomarici Santomasi, a rich baron of Gravina, left a bequest to the municipality of the above town.





As the generous donor did not have any male descendant, he thought better to leave his immense palace (almost 50 rooms!) to the community, in order to promote the culture among his fellow citizens.

There are four of us: Lucia, I and two friends of us, Emma and Marcello. 

We arrive at the museum at around 11:30.

We later realised that we should have come earlier, as there is so much to see and the closing time is just at 1 pm.

We pay the ticket, 3 euros each. A guide is going to lead us through the house museum. 

Our Beatrice is named Rosa Di Benedetto, a lady who does her job with great passion. 

When I tell Rosa that I write a cultural/travel blog, she seems very much enthusiastic about the idea of an article written in English which describes the beauty of the foundation which she works for.

"When are you going to write about us?" she enquiries. 

Her enthusiasm is contagious. 






The first room is dedicated to Pasquale Calderone Martini, deputy of the Italian Parliament, who has helped to set up this foundation.









He was a rich landowner. Indeed, we visualise a cupboard containing a full set of legumes gathered from his lands.





We move on.

"This is the state room" Rosa declares. 

She continues "Look at the roof, it's a flat caisson ceiling, from which descends a Murano chandelier. Talking about the floor, the architect has designed it inspired by Palladio ".




Rosa lead us to the next room, where is displayed an old fashion bed. 





However, the most interesting items are two tallboys enriched with ivory marquetry.





We are now entering the archaeological section.

From an historical point of view, Gravina in Puglia is one of the most important Peucetian site.

Peucetians, Daunians and Messapians belonged to the Iapyges, the pre-roman inhabitants of Apulia. 

"Please, do not take pictures of the archaeological exhibition, as prescribed by the Sovrintendenza of Apulia" the guide warns.

I am struck by the richness of this collections, which mixes up geometric motifs, typical of the Peucetian art, with figurative motifs, as result of the Hellenistic influence. 

These items have been discovered in Botromagno, the archaeological park of Gravina, where excavations have been carried out since 1960.

The Botromagno hill is a site inhabited since the Neolithic. 





I take the opportunity to mention a foreigner researcher, Alastair Small, who has dedicated years and years of hard work to dig out at Botromagno as well as at Vagnari, another archaeological site nearby Gravina.




Botromagno was the location of the pre-roman Sidion, then turned to Silvium during the roman influence.

Talking about the museum, I am struck by a fantastic krater, which dates back to 450 BC, produced by the Boreas painter.

The krater portrays the sacrifice of Agamennon's daughter Iphigenia, which is being accomplished by Diomedes.

"Now we are entering a room dedicated to Numismatics. You see displayed 1608 coins, covering a period of time which goes from Magna Graecia to the unification of Italy". Rosa says.




She continues "the most important pieces are three silver coins, which pertain to Sidion; and a golden Augustalis coined during the Frederick II time".



It's late so Rosa moves on quickly. 







We get in the gallery, which counts on two Francesco Guarini's paints.








Rosa points her finger to the next paint "That is the portray of Cardinal Orsini, who then became Pope Benedict XIII. Born in Gravina, he has given a huge contribute to modernise the Church by breaking off the corruption among Italian cardinals and priesthood". Rosa states.





I struggle to follow Rosa. She proceed quickly while I take pictures around and write down notes.




"I am proud to show you the library" Rosa declares.











"We have here 40.000 books, among which there are four incunabulum as well as 290 cinquecentine." She adds.









Another outstanding section of the museum is the crypt of San Vito, a rocky church with Byzantine frescos, removed from its original site and rebuilt here.





I have to admit that I have never seen a Pantocrator so giant, even though I have appreciated other Byzantine frescos in Massafra, Matera and Mottola.  

The frescos in this crypt are just marvellous.

"The sight of Pantocrator seems to me oblique?". I loudly remark. 

Rosa promptly replies "because He is looking at the Holy Virgin, which is painted on the right side of the crypt".

It is 1:15. 

Unfortunately, we do not have more time to view the majolica exposed there.

"Thank you Rosa" I say. 

We exchange our e-mails. 

Finally, I leave not before having promised her that I would have written the article at the soonest possible.

P.S.
Click here, should you wish to view more pics

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