A couple of days ago I received an invitation to visit
the rupestrian
church of the Holy Spirit (10th century).
The Municipality of Monopoli promotes the event.
I do not want to loose the opportunity to visit a
monument considered
unique, comparable just to
few churches located in Cappadocia (Turkey).
Therefore, on Friday the 7th I call the tourist guide
(Giuseppe) and book the visit at 6 pm.
The meeting point is in the city centre of Monopoli
(Piazza Vittorio
Emanuele II).
shuttle waiting for us.
“That’s great” I think to myself.
The shuttle is plenty of tourists.
Transport and access to the church are free of
charge.
While crossing the city on board of the shuttle, we
notice the amazement
painted on the face of locals
“Where the hell are they going to?” They seem
thinking.
Once arrived, we get off the shuttle and follow
Roberto, an
archaeologist who is going to describe us
the marvels of this church.
The church is located around 10 metres underground.
I remain behind, observing the others stepping down
the stairs.
Actually, I’m wondering if the idea of building a
church into the land is
somehow connected to the
ancestral rite of Mothe Earth (Paleolithic).
Who knows? Probably I’m wrong. Or probably, this
attachment to the land
was still occurring despite the
thousands of years.
The church of the Holy Spirit is fantastic.
It has three navate (naves),
despite its tiny scale.
What really strikes me is the vault a
crociera and the
columns, with at their top amazing capitals.
“The columns have just decoration purposes”
Roberto points out.
“The church of the Holy Spirit echos the Romanico-
pugliese cathedral of
Bari.” He adds.
Nori has worked here as restorer.
“We have discovered frescos from the 18th century” she says.
Nori adds “Of course, it seems pretty obvious that
more palinsesti are
overlapped”.
“Unfortunately, it would be needed more money to
reveal the entire set
of frescos”.
The project of rescue has been managed by the San
Domenico foundation, which has got
financed for
Puglia).
The remaining 50% by the
Municipality of
Monopoli.
Works to consolidate the church have been
completed in 2011.
“Monopoli has around 20 rupestrian churches” Nori says.
Roberto adds “Apulia counts around 300 rupestrian
churches.
The time of visit is over.
Indeed, at 7 pm there is another route, therefore, we
are urged to get
on board the shuttle.
Lucia and I decide to spend the evening in Monopoli.
We head to the city centre.
After a quick walk, we
find another rupestrian crypt (Madonna del
Soccorso) which is shamefully closed.
What’s the point in having so much cultural treasury,
and not let people
and tourist admire them.
Cultural heritage is the non plus ultra in terms of
identity of a
community.
Fortunately, we find out a new
rupestrian church
underneath Santa Maria
degli Amalfitani, the only
example of Romanico-Pugliese in Monopoli.
We encounter Angela, the tourist guide of this church
“The church takes its name by those who funded it,
the Amalfitani, which were based in Monopoli to
trade goods and products”.
According to the legend, in 1059 a crew of Amalfitani
survived a shipwreck.
As result of this, they built it up and dedicated it to
the Holy Virgin.
After having admired this church, we continue our
walk along the port
which leads to the castle.
The sky is turning pink.
Along the walls of the castle there are few interesting
restaurants.
Tourists and locals seems enjoying this Mediterranean night in Monopoli.
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