Monday 10 August 2015

Monopoli and the rupestrian church of the Holy Spirit

A couple of days ago I received an invitation to visit
the rupestrian church of the Holy Spirit (10th century).















The Municipality of Monopoli promotes the event.

I do not want to loose the opportunity to visit a 
monument considered unique, comparable just to 
few churches located in Cappadocia (Turkey).

Therefore, on Friday the 7th I call the tourist guide 
(Giuseppe) and book the visit at 6 pm.

The meeting point is in the city centre of Monopoli 
(Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II).




Once there, we find a 
shuttle waiting for us.







“That’s great” I think to myself.

The shuttle is plenty of tourists.   

Transport and access to the church are free of 
charge.

While crossing the city on board of the shuttle, we 
notice the amazement painted on the face of locals 
“Where the hell are they going to?” They seem 
thinking.

Once arrived, we get off the shuttle and follow 
Roberto, an archaeologist who is going to describe us
the marvels of this church.





The church is located around 10 metres underground.







I remain behind, observing the others stepping down
the stairs.

Actually, I’m wondering if the idea of building a 
church into the land is somehow connected to the 
ancestral rite of Mothe Earth (Paleolithic).

Who knows? Probably I’m wrong. Or probably, this 
attachment to the land was still occurring despite the
thousands of years.

The church of the Holy Spirit is fantastic.



It has three navate (naves), despite its tiny scale.

What really strikes me is the vault a crociera and the 
columns, with at their top amazing capitals.





“The columns have just decoration purposes” 
Roberto points out.






“The church of the Holy Spirit echos the Romanico-
pugliese cathedral of Bari.” He adds.





Nori has worked here as restorer.








“We have discovered frescos from the 18th century” she says.



Their touch reminds the Byzantine style.





Nori adds “Of course, it seems pretty obvious that
more palinsesti are overlapped”.





“Unfortunately, it would be needed more money to 
reveal the entire set of frescos”.

The project of rescue has been managed by the San 
Domenico foundation, which has got financed for 
50% by Caripugliafoundation (Cassa di Risparmio di 
Puglia). 

The remaining 50% by the Municipality of 
Monopoli.


Works to consolidate the church have been 
completed in 2011.

“Monopoli has around 20 rupestrian churches” Nori says.

Roberto adds “Apulia counts around 300 rupestrian churches.

The time of visit is over. 

Indeed, at 7 pm there is another route, therefore, we
are urged to get on board the shuttle.

Lucia and I decide to spend the evening in Monopoli.

We head to the city centre.




After a quick walk, we 
find another rupestrian crypt (Madonna del Soccorso) which is shamefully closed.



What’s the point in having so much cultural treasury,
and not let people and tourist admire them.

Cultural heritage is the non plus ultra in terms of 
identity of a community.






Fortunately, we find out a new 
rupestrian church 
underneath Santa Maria degli Amalfitani, the only
example of Romanico-Pugliese in Monopoli.







We encounter Angela, the tourist guide of this church

“The church takes its name by those who funded it,
the Amalfitani, which were based in Monopoli to 
trade goods and products”.




According to the legend, in 1059 a crew of Amalfitani
survived a shipwreck.

As result of this, they built it up and dedicated it to
the Holy Virgin.

After having admired this church, we continue our 
walk along the port which leads to the castle.

The sky is turning pink.
























Along the walls of the castle there are few interesting
restaurants.

Tourists and locals seems enjoying this Mediterranean night in Monopoli.


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