Botromagno, the art of making wine

“Dear Sir, I'd be pleased to interview you in regard of your activity of wine making...”. 

10 days ago I’ve e-mailed to Botromagno, a cantina located in Gravina in Puglia (Murgia). 

A couple of days later, I get the reply “Hi Antonio, I'm currently in London. I'll call you back once in Italy. Beniamino”.

Beniamino is the owner of Botromagno. We arrange an appointment on the 5^th of Saturday morning.

Equipped with my camera, I arrive there in advance.

So, I have chance to talk with Matteo De Rosa, the enologist of Botromagno.

Bear in mind that Gravina in Puglia is famous all around the world because of Verdeca, a fantastic sweet white wine.

“Verdeca dates back to the Middle Age (1200). This wine comes from the combination of Greco, Malvasia and Bianco d'Alessano.” Matteo says.

He continues “In 1973 we applied to obtain the DOC for our Verdeca wine. However, we got the certification only in 1983. Additionally, we had to change its name from Verdeca to Gravina. Since 5 years, we only combine Greco and Malvasia as the Bianco d'Alessano is almost disappeared here in Gravina”.

The enologist seems to me very competent, so I take the opportunity to question him more "I'd like to know your opinion about how the Apulian wines are performing so far. I mean, are they appreciated in Italy as well as abroad?” I enquiry.

“Well, since 20/25 years ago, the Apulian wines were mainly bought by Northern Italy wine makers to adjust their own wines. Since then, things have radically changed.” Matteo De Rosa says.

Indeed, in the last two decades a new wave of Apulian wine entrepreneurs, with the right mindset, have worked hard to promoting their wine by attending international markets.

Meantime Beniamino is arrived. We shake our hands. He takes me in his factory, meanwhile he narrates me his story.

“Since 2009, the Italian wine market has been gradually shrinking due to the ongoing crisis. So, we have been forced to sell abroad an increasing number of bottles” Beniamino says.

“Before the crisis there were so many buyers on worldwide basis. Most of them managed a business on small scale, for clients who wished to find out more about cultura enoica. 

Nowadays, few buyers have remained. They are tremendously sensitive to the price.” Beniamino adds.

Competition in the wine market is getting higher and higher.

  

“Concerning the new markets such as India and China, things are not easy from a wine-business perspective. First of all, richness is not well distributed in those countries, despite their galloping GDP. Secondly, such countries have a strong food identity. So, it won't be easy to combine our wines with their food” Beniamino states.

Talking about the Italian wines, our strengthen is the tremendous variety of vines, which represents an unicum in the world.

In fact there're 1000 different kind of vitigni (vine variety), 600 of them certified, 300 which are being evaluated and 100 brought to life again.

None like Italy has such richness in terms of vine variety. And Apulia may rightly be considered as a typical example of such fantastic kaleidoscope.

"Would you like to see my nicest vineyard?" Beniamino asks. "Yes, I'd love to" I reply.

He drives me with his car on the bottom of the hill called Botromagno, where the ancient Silvium (now Gravina) was located. 

At the bottom of that hill there is his vineyard.

Wine making is carried out over here since the 8th century BC, as testified by archaelogical evidences.

In fact, via Appia passed by Silvium. As result of this, a busy trading of vine plants coming from the Hellenistic world took place here. 

“We in Apulia should develop more and more the wine-tourism” Beniamino suggests. I fully get his precious tips.

It’s 12 o’clock. Time just flies away.

“Thanks Beniamino, your narration was really interesting. Your inputs very much appreciated. I’m going to write the article and send you the link by e-mail.” I say.

“Thanks” He says. “Hold on a moment” he adds. He fetches a bottle of rosè and hands it over me. “This is for you. It’s made by a Nero di Troia vineyard old 50 years”. Beniamino says. I have dedicated to Lucia, my daughter. 

Beniamino, this rosè is marvellous. Blessing Lucia

Ps.
Glug.it has just launched a wine contest #Raccontaciiltuovino Please, narrate your story/wine with pics, words etc.. 

Il Maggio di Accettura, an ancestral rite

On Sunday, I went to Accettura to take part to the celebration of il Maggio di Accettura, an ancestral rite held since centuries, where a holly is grafted into a turkey oak.

The holly symbolizes a female, the turkey oak a male.

According to historians, this rite seems to be introduced by the Longobards.

Accettura is a small village located on the top of a mountain, between Matera and Potenza, in Basilicata.

As per tradition, the natives have split themselves in two teams: cimaioli and maggiaioli.

In other words, cimaioli went to the Gallipoli forest to cut down the top of a holly.

The second team, maggiaioli, moved to the Montepiano bush to uproot the most beautiful example of turkey oak.

I joined to the cimaioli, though.

I was with Lucia and some friends from Altamura.

We arrived at the main square of Accettura at around 2 pm.

We got on the shuttle after having been wating for 1 hour.

However, who cares? We have had chance to talk with some natives who infected us their joy.

Il Maggio di Accettura is so deeply felt by the community, that even emigrants from UK and Germany come back every year to celebrate it.

So, after having got out the shuttle, we joined the crowd who was carrying on the holly.

It was amazing to see people gathering around the tree, drinking and singing.

And what about those men and women (mostly men) who’ll be carrying on the holly for around 15 kilometers?

Of course, good wine was being offered to anyone.

A shepherd has offered some grappa.

He was equipped with wine and grappa. “Wine is male, grappa female” he said, with an amused smile on his face.

We have reached Accettura at 8 pm.

Therefore, we have been walking for almost 4 hours.

We have stopped every hour to let the men take a rest.

I won’t never forget il Maggio di Accettura, because people is so friendly.

And then, because this rite tells us that the environment it’s the most important thing.

We civilized as well as educated men have forgotten it.

Thank you Accettura.

PS.

the graft will be done on Tuesday, therefore you are plenty of time to arrange a last minute trip to Accettura.

Welcome to Manduria, land of the Primitivo wine

I have arranged an appointment at 10 with Anna, public relator of Consorzio Produttori vini di Manduria.

I have learned the Consorzio through Alceo, a magazine of enological culture edited by the Consorzio itself.

The magazine takes its name from Alcaeus of Mytilene, Greek lyric poet who wrote drinking songs.

My girIfriend Lucia and I leave Brindisi at 8 o’clock, heading to Manduria.

My plan is to visit firstly the immense archaeological park of Manduria, of which I’ll talk about in one of the next posts.

I am excited at the idea of visiting the Consorzio, which has been founded in 1932.

The Consorzio is a team of Primitivo wine makers.

Primitivo di Manduria wine is a DOC (quality assurance label).

The Primitivo grape probably arrived In Apulia with the Illyrian people more than 25 centuries ago.

The Illyrians came from the Balkans. They colonized the entire Apulia.

Those who settled down in Salento (south of Apulia) were given the name of Messapians by the Greeks. 

Therefore, Manduria hosted one of the largest Messapian community.

We arrive at the Consorzio at 11 o’clock. 

We are enchanted by seeing how beautiful and elegant is this place.

Anna is temporarily busy with some Swedish tourists.

So, Lucia and I begin to talk with Monica, a professional and smiley sommelier.

“would you like to taste some of our wines?” she asks. 

“Yes, please” we reply pleasantly surprised.

Monica let us taste the Memoria wine. 

Then, she pours in our glasses the Amoroso (rosé). 

After that we drink a glass of Madrigale. Finally one of Sonetto.

At this stage, I have to admit that I feel merry. The Primitivo wine is between 14% and 15%. I should not forget it.

I’m happy to be here.

The magic of conviviality has infected us. 

I start talking with Antonietta, a lady who comes form Milan.

She is so fond of Apulia that she has bought a property in Ostuni. “what I love of Apulia is its colors. 

Moreover, it is plenty of olive trees around here. They grow in a soil which looks to me a carpet.”

Then, we talk with some tourists who come from Torre Annunziata (Naples).

A French lady is with them. 

She speaks an excellent Italian. 

“I have had the disgrace of marrying an Italian from Torre Annunziata” she says smiling. 

Meantime, Anna joins us. We shake hands. I congratulate her on the amazing atmosphere here.  

Therefore, Anna leads us to see the Museo della civiltà del vino Primitivo.

I have the strong feeling that Anna and her colleagues are just a great team. 

Actually, they don’t just sale wine.

Their aim is higher, much higher. Anna leads people to a journey through the culture of the Primitivo wine.

“The tragic events of 1986 have given a great lesson to our country. Nowadays, Italian wine makers fully guarantee the consumers in terms of quality. “ Says Anna.

In 1986, 26 people died because of methanol added to wine by Ciravegna, a firm located in Piedmont.

Anna is a great public relator. She would be able to make anyone at ease.

We are reaching the end of the Primitivo wine tour.

Frankly, I have had great time here. I tasted excellent wines. I met very nice people, with whom I even exchanged mobile number and e-mail address.

I strongly recommend you to come to Manduria.

You definitely won’t be disappointed. 

Salute

If you wish to see more pics, please click here

Lucera, an Arabic town of the Middle Age

Today I am going to narrate Lucera, a city in the province of Foggia.

Lucera, located on three hills, has always played a strategic role of door to the Tavoliere delle Puglie.

Archaeological excavations proved the fact that the area was inhabited since the 3^rd millennium BC.

However, Lucera became very important under the Roman rule.

In 321 BC,  the Roman army while moving to Lucera to assist their allies, walked into an ambush and were defeated by the Samnites at the battle of Caudine Forks.

However, it is in the middle age that Lucera turns into something unique in the history of Europe: an Arabic city.

How did it happen?

Frederick II the Swabian, in order to tackle the Arabic uprisings in Sicily, transferred many of them to Lugêrah (as it was pronounced in Arabic).

The Swabian guaranteed them freedom of religion.

Luceria Saracinorum became a prosperous town.

Vito Salierno, who wrote I Musulmani in Puglia e Basilicata (ed. Lacaita, 2000), states that the Arabics living in Lucera were around 40.000.

The Arabics were great artisans. 

They used to work leather and Arabic-Sicilian ceramic. 

Additionally, they grew olive trees, durum wheat, barley, legumes and grapes. Muslims also kept bees for honey.

The Arabics became the most faithful fighters under the Swabians.

I am so fascinated by this story that once in Lucera, I investigate about the remains of the Arabic age. 

A gentle lady, who works for the tourist information helped me a lot on this.

I keep walking, following the indications.

First of all, I see the immense Swabian-Angevin fortress.

Inside, there is a small Arabic castle where Frederick II used to rest, surrounded by his court.

After having left the fortress, I head to what was supposed to be the Harem of Luceria Saracinorum.

Nowadays, it is a church.

The Mosque was located where now the cathedral is. 

The Angevins destroyed it.

Then, I see two Arabic towers, incorporated by newest buildings.

While quickly moving to the Archaeological Museum, I realize that many people in Lucera have Arabic features.

The Museum is rich of Daunian and Roman objects.

However, I am there mainly to view the exhibition related to the Arabic age.

When, I see them, I feel all the beauty and the richness of this land, where so many civilizations have left important proofs of themselves.

I begin talking with an enchanted visitor.“you know, once I found in Italy a golden ring and small statue” he confides to me. “I can not describe you what I felt when I found them” he adds.

He is an admirer of the Arabic art.

I get out the Museum with great thoughts.

I stop by a restaurant for a quick lunch. So, I decide to order a bottle of local Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera.

A great red wine, with intense flavors.

This wine is made from Uva di Troia grape (35-60%), with the addition of Montepulciano, Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera, which collectively make up between 25-35% of the blend.

In terms of food, I have a wide range of healthy dishes, typical of the peasant cuisine.

Therefore, I go for cikatielle k’a rukele e k’i fenucchjette (homemade pasta with few fresh tomatoes, local rocket and a pinch of aromatic herb name finocchietto.

I finish this post not before having mentioned an immense Italian actor, Massimo Troisi.

He has shot the movie Le vie del Signore sono finite here in Lucera.







Ciao Massimo

R.I.P

Come to Trani and have a glass of Moscato wine

Trani is one of the most appealing Apulian sea towns.

The night life is sparkling. 

People from the provinces of Bari, Foggia and BAT go there to have good time.

You find many pubs and restaurants along the quay (marina).

Many fishing boats are docked there. Therefore, if you wish to eat fresh fish you know where to go to.

I walk around the inner city and I find an interesting advise which says that Trani is a città slow. 

It adds: città del vivere bene (town where you can live well). 

This movement is inspired by the slow food organization.

The main aims of the città slow are:

•         Making life better for everyone living in an urban environment. 
•      Improving the quality of life in the  cities. 
•      Provide inspiration for a healthier lifestyle.  
•      Protecting the environment

Talking about the history, Trani has lived its golden age during the middle age.

Its port, well placed for the crusades, developed greatly, becoming the most important one on the Adriatic sea.

In the 12^th century, some important families from the Italian Maritime Republics such as Venice, Pisa, Amalfi established themselves in Trani.

Trani hosts one of the largest Jewish community of Southern Italy.

By the 12th century, Trani already housed a large Jewish community.

We have to remember that under the Swabians, the entire South of Italy lived a time of prosperity. 

Additionally, Jews, Muslims and Catholics used to live all together in peace.

Trani was the birthplace of one of the greatest medieval rabbis of Italy: Rabbi Isaiah ben Mali di Trani (1180 - 1250)

Then, under the Anjou and Aragonese rule, the Jewish community was persecuted by the Dominicans, who notoriously played a key role during the Holy Inquisition.

For example, the Scolanova Synagogue was built in the 13^th century. 

Then, it was confiscated around the 1380, and converted for use as a church.

In 2006, the building was de-sanctified by the church and returned to the Jewish community.







From a cultural and religious perspective, Apulia seems to me like Andalusia in Spain. 

Both these regions worked as connections between East and West.  

Now, let’s talk about the symbol of Trani, the Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Nicholas the pilgrim.

Built in the characteristic white local limestone, it lies on a raised open site near the sea.

The arches of the Romanesque portal are beautifully ornamented, in a manner suggestive of Arab influence.

The Swabian castle of Trani is a small jewel.

Trani is well known for its sweet white wine: Moscato di Trani.

I guarantee you that this is a faboulus wine, ideal to accompany sweets, particularly those made by almonds.

If you wish to see more pictures, please click here

Take it slow