The Mesagne's castle

Yesterday evening I took the opportunity to visit the Norman-Swabian castle of Mesagne.

Mesagne is just 10 km far from Brindisi.

So, I called the tourist information office of Mesagne (+39 0831 738898).

A professional lady answered my call advising that have been scheduled a tour at 8 pm, and a second one at 9.30.

Lucia and I choose the earlier one.

Such event is one of the hundreds which take place every Saturday night in Apulia (#pugliaopendays).

Culture is one of the key factor of Apulia’s appeal.

Tourists keep appreciating Apulia so much, that again this year it leads in terms of number of tourists hosted, followed by Tuscany and Sardinia.  

We arrive at the castle at 8.10, just in time to listen to the guide introducing the event.

We are around 25 people.

I notice two German families. There has always been a speciali feeling with Germans, a historical connection which linked Germany to Apulia and vice-versa.

In other words, we’ll never forget how important  have the Swabians (Frederick II and Manfred) been for Apulia and for the entire South of Italy.

The castle of Mesagne. According to documents which date back to 1060, there was a already a castrum  with military pourposes.

Then, the Swabians have developed it further.

Actually, the castle has been gradually modified till the 17^th century.   

Lucas, our guide, is Argentinian “We are in the tower built up by Orsini Del Balzo in the 15^th century. He was enormously rich”.

The guide continues “you see here a bathroom, which is quite unusual for that time. However, the oldest European bathroom is in Castel Del Monte (Apulia!), a Frederick II’s innovation taken by Arabs.

We continue our visit at ground floor. This immense room was till the 60ies the so called cinema Italia.

Then, we go downstairs to view the rooms where two kind of olive oils used to be stored: the alimentary oil and the lampante oil. The latest one was used as combustible, to enlight streets and rooms.

The lampante oil made the fortune of Salento.

The eruption of baroque in Salento corresponds to the economical boom of such oil.  

Indeed, Gallipoli was the port from which lampante oil departed for Instanbul and many other destinations.

We get back at ground floor to admire an amazing Messapian tomb.

This tomb was meant to bury just one person, whose we nowadays would call VIP.

The equipment discovered it is outstanding.

Few fantastic  kraters catch my eyes.

However, I’m astonished by seeing a crown of golden leaves, with a golden rose right in the middle. 

Amazing. I’ve never seen anything like this so far.

After having completed the tour in the castle, Lucas guides us to view the city centre of Mesagne.

This city center is very well preserved.

A pizzeria called Nedina, name of a Messapian queen, has a glass groundfloor which enable us to admire few more Messapian tombs.

We continue our tour till the St. Leonard’s church, which belonged to the Teutonic knights (Germans) since the 13^th century.

While walking trough the San Cipriano quarter, I can’t believe to my eyes: a Fascist advise of 1929 which invite the guests of nearby brothel to avoid to piss outside, by the wall. 

It’s 10.30.

We begin to be hungry.

Therefore, after having exchanged smiles and said bye to the people met tonight, we stop at the first pizzeria, sit down and order pizza with a glass of Peroni beer.

Cheers.   

The crypt of the Original Sin (Matera)

Matera is invaded by tourists since it has been appointed European Capital of Culture 2019.

Matera fully deserves this significant recognition.

In fact, Matera has one of the widest Italian cultural heritage.

An example? The rupestrian churches.

According to Le Chiese Rupestri di Puglia, written by Franco Dell’Aquila and Aldo Messina, Matera has around 150 rupestrian churches, which represents the biggest rupestrian heritage between Apulia and Basilicata.

I had red on La Gazzetta del Mezzogiorno, about the increasing interest of Italian and foreigner tourists about the crypt of “peccato originale”.

This news made me tremendously curious.

Therefore, the last week end I set off to Matera to admire it.

Lucia, my partner, has called ArteZeta (320.5350910; info@artezeta.it) in order to enquiry about the access.

The customer service advised that the meeting point was the oil station located 10 km. next Matera coming from Altamura, on the way towards Potenza.

The ticket costs 8 euros.

The meeting time was at 5 pm.

We arrived few minutes earlier.

Some additional tourists were waiting for the guide, who actually arrived at 5 o’clock.

Therefore, after a brief chat, all get on car and follow the guide.

After few miles, finally we arrive at a canyon.

Parked the car under an olive tree, 100 metres and we’re in front of the crypt.

“La cripta del peccato originale dates back to between 8^th and 9^th century. Therefore, it is the oldest frescos among the rupestrian churches in Matera. It has been discovered 52 years ago”. The guide says.

“The cripta has been inhabited for centuries by shepherds, who used to keep in their sheepfold, light fire  and make cheese”. He continues.

The frescos have been made during the Longobard era, when they were settled in Benevento. However, the frescos have evident Byzantine’s influence.

The aim of these ancient artists who painted it, was to illustrate to illiterate people some of the most relevant part of the bible.

We see the spot of the peccato originale, a snake twisted around the tree, where the fruit passed by Eva to Adam is a fig rather than an apple.

The fig can be found in few other Christian iconography such as the Cappella Sistina’s frescos, painted by Michelangelo.

So, let’s get back to the crypt.

The Holy Virgin is represented with mellow eyes, typical of the Byzantine’s iconography.

Another intriguing aspect is that some of the Saints have six fingers, just to emphasize the fact that human beings are imperfect.

I am glad for having come here to appreciate this amazing place.

We leave the crypt not before having a brief discussion with the guide, whom I give the address of my blog.

We leave the crypt, then we stop after few hundred metres away: we get off the car to visit Dragone, a local wine maker.

After having entered in this renewed masseria, we are offered few glasses of wine with cheese by a gentle woman.

I don’t like cheese, but I definetely like good wine.

We homage the conviviality by buying two bottles of red wine “Il dono”, ten euros each.

Lucia is merry. I’m fine, ready to drive back home.

Foggia gay pride

A long, colourful wave of people have crossed Foggia yesterday.

The rally starts at 5.30 pm.

At that time the sun hammers in the head.

Therefore, I arrive in Foggia at 7.

The day is still bright.

The city centre is plenty of people who look forward to view the colourful wave of Lesbians, Gay, Bisex and Trans (LGBT).

The Gay Pride took place the first time in 1969, in New York City.

At that time, the police raids against the LGBT movement were habitual in the States.

However, the 28^th of June 1969, the LGBT undertook a series of violent, spontaneous demonstrations which went down in history as the Stonewall riots.

Since then, LGBT movement has stood up for their rights.

Without any doubt, a lot has been achieved from that moment on.

Let’s just remind the Irish referendum on the same-sex marriage held on the 22^nd of May.

Nevertheless, it’s still not enough.

A lot still needs to be done, especially in countries like Italy, which political agenda is influenced by the Vatican on subjects such as civil rights.

Yesterday, I recognised among the demonstrators Michele Emiliano, president of the Apulian region, and Antonio De Caro, Mayor of Bari.

Leonardo Palmisano from SEL (a left-wing political party) points out: “I dedicate this gay pride to the immigrants, who collect tomatoes around Foggia for just a bunch of euros. We must bear in mind that rights are interlaced”. 

Silvia di Liddo and Caterina Mattia, members of Movimento studentesco Link affirm: “we point the finger against the national media, TV in primis, who are responsible for distorting the truth”. 

Giulia Mucelli from GAL Meridaunia states that Monti Dauni are gay friendly, therefore, anyone who wants travel around this amazing part of Apulia is very welcome.

Among the participants, I wish to mention a Dutch guy, who has got married with a guy from Manfredonia (my hometown!) met in Bologna.

He looks quite happy to be here and share his love story with others.

Peace&Love


PS.
Please click here, should you wish to view more pics

Migrants and Mediterranean, the Apulia's answer

The role of Apulia in helping and assisting the new immigrants from Africa is getting bigger and bigger.

The goal is to treat the migrants with humanity and respect.

The exodus has taken place since few years.

Migrants risk their life for a better future.

Sadly, In Italy as well as in Europe, the recent immigration is being tackled by far-right political parties such as Front National in France and Lega Nord in Italy.

Xenophobia and racism seems growing among people.

Therefore, citizens and associations in Brindisi (Cobas, ANPI, Libera, Emergency...), have gathered together in order to give the birth to the Comitato Migranti e Mediterraneo.

The mission of such Comitato is to stay beside the migrants, giving them support.

There is an Apulian motto which says: come tratti vieni trattato. In other words, “what goes around comes around”.

It means that migrants can be a great resource or become a big problem.

If we treat them right we may expect something good from them.

The 13^th of June, the Comitato has met up in San Vito dei Normanni, few miles from Brindisi.

The meeting has been held in the ex-Fadda.

Anna Chiara, spokesperson of the Comitato, says: “racism and xenophobia are inoculated into the national body through TV and newspapers “.

Davide, a Nigerian immigrant who lives in Ostuni, says: “I am a volunteer in the local old folk’s home. Sometime, I arrange with African friends gigs to entertain the local elderly. I have founded an association called Le Monde.

After having listened to Davide, I thought to myself: "Dear Davide, thank you very much".

He continues: “The problem is ignorance. It has happened to me to be called marocchino (Moroccon), even though I’m Nigerian”.

Giovanni, volunteer of Emergency, says that Italy had promulgated years ago a law, named  Bossi-Fini, which introduced the crime of illegal immigration (clandestinità).

The Bossi-Fini law was openly against the principles of International laws.

The Comitato Migranti e Mediterraneo has meet up again the 23^rd of June in Tuturano, a small village close to Brindisi.

the meeting has been held in a villa confiscated years ago to Salvatore Buccarella, a local mafia boss.



The villa currently hosts Asylum seekers and Refugees.

Five Nigerian families have recently been given a flat.

They will be allowed to stay here for 6 or 12 months.

So, the migrants are involved in a project called SPRAR (Sistema di protezione per richiedenti asilo e rifugiati).

The European Union is financing such project to assist migrants on a short-medium term.   

Maurizio Guadalupi, chief of the cooperativa "Solidarietà e Rinnovamento",has invited the associations of Tuturano to join the Comitato in order to arrange a welcome party in honour of the African guests.

The party will be held on the 11th of July.

Red wine, frise and melonata will be offered to those who will attend it.

So, you all are very welcome to join us.


PS.
Please click here, should you wish to view a reportage on the migrants hosted in Taranto

Pugnochiuso, homage to Oliver Rackham

Today I’m going to narrate you about an amazing place named Pugnochiuso, located in Gargano, north of Apulia.

I have been there one week on holiday.

Pugnochiuso represents for me the ideal place where to reinvigorating myself.

No cars around, an immense biodiversity, a green emerald sea. 

What else shall I ask for?!?

I know Pugnochiuso quite well as I have been working there for three years, just in summertime. It was a  seasonal job.

I was a shuttle driver.

I was paid to take tourists up and down the resort.

The air of Pugnochiuso is so balmy, so healthy due to the combination of pine trees and sea.

Each night I went to sleep, I used to leave the window opened because I enjoyed to wake up the next morning by the whistle of birds.

Indeed, I am fond of bird listening.

In the afternoon, I used to rest on the beach, or alternatively, reading my books.

While reading The Economist (March 14^th-20^th 2015), I have discovered the outstanding story of Oliver Rackham, an English plant pathologist and woodland archaeologist, who died in February 2015.

Oliver Rackham had helped in 1962 to save from destruction the Hayley Wood in Cambridgeshire, in UK.

He found out that the Hayley Wood had been there for at least 700 years.

The latest battle undertaken by Sir Oliver Rackham was against the trees being shipped around the world, taking their pathogens with them.

As outcome, the England’s elms had almost disappeared.

Beside that, horse chestnuts and alders are affected a lot in UK.    

We must not forget his lesson: love trees and plants, from which our life relies on.

Talking about plants, Pugnochiuso has a huge number of caper plants.

Eating capers with tomatoes and tuna drives me crazy!

I guess, I have collected around 6 kilos of capers.

I like to give a jar of capers to my family as well as to my friends.

Therefore, I have carried on in Pugnochiuso mainly eating what that place offered me: mussels and octopus.

Why? Because it reminds me the life during the Paleolithic, when human beings sustain themselves by hunting game and collecting fruits and roots.

The bay of Pugnochiuso is plentyful of fish and mussels.

Pugnochiuso resort has been created by Enrico Mattei, the glorious CEO of ENI.

It's common opinion that he was brutally killed by those who hated him and his strategies of buying oil directly from Middle-Eastern countries, by-passing the seven sisters.

Enrico Mattei fell in love with the Pugnochiuso bay.

Since more than a decade, Pugnochiuso is owned by Marcegaglia, of which the core business is steel.

I have heard that Marcegaglia would like to sell Pugnochiuso.

Well, I hope it will take place soon, because Pugnochiuso strongly needs to be re-launched in order to have more and more people enjoying this corner of Paradise on earth.